Our Area - The Berry South Central France
Annual pumpkin fête at Tranzault
The French countryside - Indre, Cher, Creuse and Allier
Berry is the small part of south-central France corresponding roughly to the two departments of Indre (36) and Cher (18) and the north of departments Allier (03) and Creuse (23), all named after the major rivers that run through them. About 250 kilometres south of Paris, between the Loire valley and the mountains of the Auvergne, Berry has a varied topography from north to south. We live between the towns of La Châtre and Châteaumeillant and our immediate countryside is known as "bocage", small fields and hedgerows stocked with Limousine, Charolais and Friesian cattle. The gentle hills are cut by meandering streams and the local oak forests provide firewood and structural timber. To our east are the vineyards of Châteaumeillant then the more sweeping countryside of the Cher valley. To our west, beyond La Châtre and the river Indre the Creuse valley heads north to the Loire, passing through the town of Argenton, rich in Gallo/Roman history. South of Argenton is the picturesque village of Gargilesse and the lake of Eguzon - a must for watersports enthusiasts - whilst further north is the Brenne National Park, full of wildlife and a rich haven for birds who are attracted to its thousands of ponds and lakes. The bocage continues south towards the Massif Central.
Communications - Paris, the channel ports, the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts
Berry is at the geographical heart of France. Paris is a three hour drive away by autoroute, either the A20 or A71. The Atlantic coast can be reached in 4 hours and the Mediterranean in 5 hours. Switzerland is only 5 hours drive to the east but you can ski or snowboard in the Cantal, three hours away by road. The channel ports are accessible within an easy day's drive either via Paris or by our preferred cheaper route via Chârtres and Rouen. Châteauroux has a railway connection to Paris Austerlitz, taking 2 hours and a judicious use of the timetable can take you from Châteauroux to London St. Pancras in 5 hours, certainly more relaxing and often cheaper and faster than flying. There will soon be a direct TGV link between Châteauroux and Charles de Gaulle airport via the Gare du Nord. If you are looking for cheap flights then Limoges airport connects with Southampton, Stansted, East Midland, Liverpool and Teesside. The airport is 90 minutes away by toll-free autoroute.
The Flag of the Berry
A short history of the Berry
In iron-age times the area now known as the Berry was occupied by the Gaulish Bituriges tribe. The Romans left their mark on the landscape and it later became a county of early-mediaeval France. By stages it fell under the direct ownership of the Kings of France and became a Dukedom in the 14th century, at which time the title "Duc du Berry" was created. During the Hundred Years War the Dukedom was the scene of conflict between France and England, the many impressive châteaux (Culan, Sarzay etc.) testifying to its turbulent history. Berry was fully incorporated into the Kingdom of France in 1601 by Henri IV and the Dukedom became a courtesy title carried by royal princes. Although the title persisted beyond the Revolution the Napoleonic administrative reforms abolished the geographical connections as the country was divided into Departements. Yet, curiously, the name carries on. The local inhabitants refer to themselves as "Berrichons" and whilst cordially detesting Paris and all its works they extend a warm and genuine welcome to British and Dutch incomers who are prepared to make an effort to contribute to the local economy and way of life.
Places to visit - Châteaux, gardens; cities, towns and villages
Château de Sarzay
The list of local places to visit is almost endless. Berry is not on the usual tourist circuits favoured by British and other European visitors who normally speed through en route to other destinations. This has benefits in the lack of crowding etc. that you often get in tourist France. But there is a wealth of history, culture and leisure that makes the region so attractive to visitors and residents alike. The following is a very small sample of what's on offer.
Châteauroux appears to be a modern industrial and administrative centre but walk a few hundred metres away from the railway station and you will find yourself in a maze of mediaeval streets with ornamental parks and gardens bordering the river Indre. The trading estates on the outskirts of the city provide a comprehensive choice of shops catering for almost every need. Châteaumeillant (Roman Mediolanum) still shows evidence of its iron-age origins. A small town, really a large village, it has shops, schools, a supermarket and a weekly outdoor market. The old castle gatehouse, built in the middle of the Gallo-Roman ramparts, is now the Gendarmerie. Nearby is the old market hall that carries a plaque commemorating the courage of the local residents who sheltered 140 of their Jewish neighbours during the war; hiding them, at risk to their own lives, throughout the Pétain years and the nazi occupation. La Châtre is an astonishingly pleasant place to live. Like most towns in the Berry its history goes back a long way and its ancient donjon still overlooks the Indre valley with its watermills and gardens.
The donjon at La Châtre
Its shopping centre would be the envy of any British town of comparable size. No anonymous town-centre of charity shops and ubiquitous high-street brands but a vibrant centre of individual traders offering just about anything you want. La Châtre celebrates its daughter, the novelist George Sand. Born Aurore Dupin in 1804 she is famous for her depiction of local rural life in her many novels. Most of the locations still exist and form part of a tourist trail connecting La Châtre to some beautiful buildings and villages. She entertained many famous artists and musicians at her home in nearby Nohant - such luminaries as Chopin, Liszt, Delacroix and Belzac. Eventually she moved to Gargilesse which, as a thriving artists' village, is now the nearest thing to a tourist honeypot in this part of France. From Gargilesse it is but a short step to Crozant with its ruined castle so admired by 19th century artists such as Claude Monet. Nearer to La Châtre, and still with connections to George Sand, is the village of Sainte Sévère, made famous by the artist Jacques Tati in his film "Jour de Fête". Shot in 1947 it used most of the villagers as extras. As a frontier stronghold in the Hundred Years War it was captured by the English then recaptured by Bertrand du Guesclin in 1372 following a two-year siege. The fortified châteaux of the area are all worth a visit as are the ornamental gardens and Ainey-le-Vieil combines the two attractions on one site.
George Sand
Bourges (the administrative centre of the Cher) is the self-acknowledged capital of the Berry and as a mediaeval cathedral city it is well worth an extended visit - explore the links with the 15th century merchant and minister Jacques Coeur.
Culture, sport and leisure in the Berry
The George Sand connection is evident in the local musical and artistic festivals. Nohant offers two annual festivals concentrating on music and literature respectively while nearby Château d'Ars boasts an internationally renowned musical extravaganza which takes place annually around the 14th of July. All the local villages take it in turns to host their own themed annual fête which includes music and dance as well as fleamarkets and funfairs. Each weekend sees a fair somewhere in the region between Easter and October, a tradition that has been sadly lost in many other parts of France. In common with the rest of France our region is well-endowed with sports and leisure activities of almost every imaginable kind. From excellent swimming-pools to a championship golf course; from watersports facilities on local reservoirs to a Formula 3 motorsports circuit. You name it and we've probably got it - and the prices are very reasonable compared to the UK, often with free access. Couple this with cheap (again often free) town-centre parking it's not hard to see why so many Brits are attracted to life in France.